The Pirinexus

Between Monday, 9th September and Thursday 12th September, Angus and I cycled the Pirinexus, a 350km circular route, starting and ending in Girona, involving climbing the Pyrenees (4000m of elevation).

Before we started I had anxious thoughts about being able to complete the task – I was worried about my own fitness and ability; and worried about the weather (the forecast suggested storms and heavy rain). When it came to it, neither were limitations in overcoming the climb.

We cycled from Girona, planning on travelling about 80 km on the first day, but decided to continue for 160km to Ceret due to the weather forecast. Steadily cycling up the two Cols we had to climb we reached the top with time to spare for the 40km decent to Ceret. This was an exhilarating 40km where I quickly forgot about the challenging climbing we had just completed. During the ascent I had moments of feeling uncomfortable and tired, but I knew that if I kept going I would eventually reach the summit. On reflection, it wasn’t nearly as bad as I had imagined. I was constantly reminded of the various ‘mountains’ I was climbing back home … mostly around work and finances … was there a summit to these?; and if I just kept steadily going, would I eventually get there; and what exhilarating decent would I discover?

Ceret was an enchanted town with a sense of culture and a rest place for pilgrims on every journey. It also reminded me of how much I appreciated French patisseries. Angus and I enjoyed the museum of Modern Art, which again challenged my perception of things. I had largely ‘thrown away’ the idea of appreciating any Picasso-like art, but found refreshing respect for these artists’s view of life and the world; and how they honestly attempted to portray the reality of things through their art.

Travelling from Ceret to Peralada was another exhilarating experience. Having climbed the toughest of our mountain stages, I was ready and amped to tackle the next climbs. And again descending the mountain on rugged paths was a joy and delight, especially seeing what our bicycles could do. We then continued for many kilometres with a mighty wind behind us … pushing us toward our destination … it was a joyous free wheeling.

I will remember Peralada for the quaint streets, cribbage, sketching, and the wonderful breakfast.

The journey to the coast was filled with contrast and diversity – from the mountains to the sea, from rural fruit areas (where we sampled apples) to the hustle and bustle of the Costa Brava; and from the peace and serenity of the ‘naked’ stripped-back life to the glitz and sparkle of the pleasure-me daze of the over-the-top resort life. I quickly got drawn into this, especially with the all-you-can-eat buffet, which although left me feeling uncomfortably full, felt uncomfortably empty about being in this soulless place.

The swim in the Med was a highlight, but is was with a pull back towards the mountains, that we continued the last leg of this epic journey. Returning to Girona along the gravel tracks which had made up most of the 350km route, made me appreciate travelling on paths not used by motorised vehicles. This felt like the journey was the focus and not the destinations.

So often I get my head down and push on to get somewhere; without really seeing and experiencing the journey in the way that it grants itself to pilgrims willing to embrace it. I’m realising the worth of getting off the “motorway”, slowing down and allowing the gift of the present moment to have a place in my essence of Being; and also giving myself to the present moment … an exchange which births a serenity and a joy that opens my eyes to the beauty all around and within.

The Pirinexus gently and patiently guided me in seeing the journeys in life, and not just the destinations, as the purpose of our pilgrimage.